Build thread - Sonus' 67 MGBGT SQ

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 10:01 AM

I thought I’d make a thread about my effort in building a SQ system in my 67 MGB GT.
I had a Journal that some might have had a browse of, but unfortunately it disappeared in the last software update and could not be retrieved.

The car’s a 67 MkI GT. The car was built January 4th and 5th 1967. Then shipped to the US on the 18th the same month. The car had little options added to it apart form wire wheels and a cigar lighter on the dashboard. The car has had numerous owners. I don’t know how many in the states, but do know that the car was exported to Germany in 1995. Then in 1997 the car was sold to Norway. Here it has passed through two previous owners before me. I bought it in 2000 and have since used it as my daily driver for a couple of years. The cold winters and salty roads has left its mark and last year I decided to start a “restoration”.

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 10:02 AM

As I've been interested in car stereo fro 10+ years I wanted to integrate a nice SQ system into the car. However I didn’t want it to be too over the top. The goal is to build a system that has the capabilities to play loud enough to compete with the cars own noise levels and that can do it with good SQ. I had started collecting bits and pieces already before I bought the car. The equipment list is as follows

Amps:
Planet Audio HVT752 and HVT7150
These are hybrid vacuum tube amplifiers that were constructed and built for Planet Audio by ZED Audio Corp and Steven Mantz. You can read more about Steven Mantz here - http://members.shaw.ca/pferlow/steven_mantz_history.htm

The HVT752 is a 2 x 50Watt amp that will be driving my front stage. The rating is probably a little exaggerated as the fuse only is 25amps.

The HVT 7150 is a 2 x 150 watt amp that will be running the subwoofer. This amp was supplied with a 40amp fuse. I am unsure whether to run the amp in stereo on the 2 ohm DVC sub or bridge it into 1 or 4 ohm load. I think I’ll try to run it in stereo as I have a feeling that bridged amps sound a little more hard strung than if run in stereo.

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 10:03 AM

Speakers:
Focal Utopia 136W front stage and Image Dynamics IDQ10V2d2

The Focal Utopia 136W will be mounted in 4,5 litres ported boxes. These boxes will be mounted in front of the doors. Here are some photos of the construction of the enclosures.

The IDQ10 will be mounted in a sealed enclosure that’s approx 17,5 litres. I really wanted to have upfront bass, but due to space limitations I hade to locate the sub in the rear under the original false floor that covers that spare wheel. As the car has knock off wheels (I like to present them as F1 style wheels

) I need to have my own spare with me at all times. I therefore had to shape the box to go around the spare.

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 10:04 AM

The gem of the system - aka Headunit

Mcintosh MX406

This unit was chosen due to two facts. 1. it is supposed to be one of the all time best SQ HUs and 2. it has a retro look that will blend very well with the MGs steel dashboard adorned with chrome switches and instruments. You can see a trial fitting in the previous pic.

The Build

The build started when I had an electrical fire in the car December 2005. Queuing with the heater blowing, wipers on full tilt and headlamps on the 37year old electrical harness had had enough and decided to start smoking. Luckily I had mounted a master battery switch which I instantly flipped when I felt the smell of burning wires and saw the smoke. The car was towed to my house and sat outside for a few winter months.

Then in April 2006 I finally got a garage that I could work in.

First thing was redoing the interior. As I was planning a stereo system I had used a couple of months researching sound deadeners. First mistake was when I bought 5 litres of Noisekiller and applied that. The liquid damper had real poor adicive (sp?) properties. Then I found www.sounddeadenershowdown.com. I sent an e-mail to Rick at RAAMmat and got a prompt replay. I think I sent Rick almost 20 messages and he replayed to every one of them with answers to all my more or less stupid Qs – a real confidence booster when it came to doing business with him. I ordered two rolls of RAAMmat BXT and 6 yards of Ensolite foam.

9 weeks later the goods arrived. Luckily the post office lady forgot to charge me VAT so the whole package cost me only half of what brown bread goes for over here. After making sure that the Noisekiller left in the car had set properly and wouldn’t fall of when I applied the BXT I set to work.

And this is as far as I have come. At the moment it’s –25C outside and the garage only has a diesel driven heater.

Next on the list is redoing the roof with sound deadener and an alcantara roof lining.

Then I’ll start mounting the dash and rewire it. Then I can turn my attention towards trial mounting the system and have a listen – hopefully I won’t have to do to many changes

Skeelsie · 10-02-2007, 10:18 AM

The kick builds look wicked, most people go for the stick it in hole approach, you've obviously put some serious thought into those.

McIntosh HU and Planet audio valve amps mmmmmm.

KaosKustomsUK · 10-02-2007, 10:46 AM

looking good!

lovely colour on it!

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 10:54 AM

Skeelsie - those aren't door pods but kickbuilds

Kaos - the colour is Chrysler Viper GTS blue, but I'll probably change it for BRG in the future.

KaosKustomsUK · 10-02-2007, 11:16 AM

noooo! keep the colour, its gorgeous on it!

Chas · 10-02-2007, 12:27 PM

Lovely build Sonus

.

I'm still thinking of what to do my MGB in. I may do it in the original brown for now, since I don't really have access to an enclosed space, hence I'll have less than ideal conditions (The engine bay and door shuts are still mint

).

What does the car sound like with the builds in place?

.

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 03:41 PM

Chas - I would have kept the original brown colour on yours. Not because it's a gorgeous colour, but because it'll save you heaps of money and time and most importantly it'll look more "complete" with every part in the same colour. My car is slate gray in the engine bay and will need to change when I decide on colour.

Reg. the sound - I haven't got as far as powering it all up yet - fingers crossed tho

Chas · 10-02-2007, 03:59 PM

When do you think it will all be complete, considering the sound side of things seem fine?

.

Sonus · 10-02-2007, 04:29 PM

I'm hoping to have it runing this summer, but need someone to do some welding for me

Then I'll start with the engine swap next winter. Looking into fitting a Ford ZETEC, either with throttle bodies or with a supercharger

Here's someone elses conversion

Chas · 10-02-2007, 04:38 PM

Sorry to keep off topic Sonus, but if it possible, could you PM/email me with some of the details on how to go about a Zetec conversion if you have any? My heart says a Rover V8, but they're not really the best of engines to be honest

.

krismusic · 10-02-2007, 04:46 PM

Nice thread.

Nice car. Nice kit. Nice restoration. Nice install. Nice one.

Lyons · 10-02-2007, 06:16 PM

Great thread mate. Install looks to be very tidy, im impressed.

My dad has a '67 Roadster, they're super wee cars.

Andy@React · 10-02-2007, 07:01 PM

huge kick panels!!

awsome kick builds too!

Paintguy · 10-02-2007, 07:09 PM

Very nice.

I'd been keeping an eye on your journal, but it's nice to see everything in one place

singh_ji · 10-02-2007, 08:19 PM

nice,loving it mate! keep us updated

fhl · 11-02-2007, 02:07 PM

Looks very nice!

Frode

davva2004 · 11-02-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonus

Looking into fitting a Ford ZETEC, either with throttle bodies or with a supercharger

If you fancy trying a 250bhp Zetec Turbo build drop me a PM I can give you a parts list and how to guide!

Awesome ICE build, those amps look sweet!

Sonus · 17-02-2007, 07:11 PM

There will be no Turbo in ths car. If I'm going with boost it will be by supercharging. I know turbocharges were available in 67, but superchargers were what most used. I'm trying to build a car that uses modern products, but with a "period thinking" behind the choices.

There are quite a few supercharger kits for the Zetec, costing no more than than a complete set of Jenvey throttle bodies ((£1500).

Sonus · 18-02-2007, 05:45 PM

Some progress was made today. I've started doing things backwards. I started doing floors etc. But forgot to do the roof. SO today I've sanded down the light surface rust and painted over it with Hammerrite. Then I removed the last bits of old bitumen sounddeadening that was still sticking to the roof.

I have had various ideas of how to do the roof liner. When I bought the car there were no lining in the car so I have no parts to trace for the new lining. First I thought I'd use a 1.5mm FG board with the vinyl glued to it, then fit the board. I have now decided against this. Instead I am going with a sandwich glued straight to the roof panel consisting of 1 layer of RAAMmat BXT, 1 layer of RAAMmat Ensolite and then the lining (either vinyl or alcantara) glue to this.
I made a quick trial patch and it all seem slike the way to go

So after the sucessfull trial fitting I covered the whole roof in BXT

And then started to fit the Ensolite to it

I've also forgotten to show how my battery will be mounted and fused.
The car has the battery in the rear underneath what used to be the rear seats. Originally the car had two 6 volt batteries in series, but I've changed this to a Optima Red Top. I have changed the original power wire going from the battery to the starter selonoid with a 4 gauge wire. The were also no fuse close to the battery from the factory, but I am fitting on just in case (remember - this resto all started with the car almost going up in flames due to old and worn electrics)

The bracket is made out of IKEA cutting board plastic. I needed a material that wasn't conductive as I wanted it to fit around the + pole. Only thing that I am worried about is the current draw from the starter. The circuit breaker is only 100amps and might be to small - time will tell. The extra blade style fuses will be used for the electric reel lock of my three point harness and continous power for the HU. The main power wire will travel from the 100amp fuse to a master power switch. Therefor I need a second feed for the HU so it doesn't loose its memory settings.

KUB3 · 18-02-2007, 05:53 PM

It's great to see threads like this. Love the kick builds. Definately the way I will instal midbass too.

Personally I'd have the shell welded and resprayed inside and out before anything else though.

Sonus · 18-02-2007, 06:06 PM

I agree, if I could have started allover again (if i had known that there was as much rust as there is) I would have acid dipped the body and gotten it all painted in BRG before any other work.

KUB3 · 18-02-2007, 06:18 PM

Might even be cheaper to buy a brand new repro heritage shell. This is what a mate did with an e-type