Is there a single amp, either 4 or 5 channel, which will put out about 2x100w at 4 ohms and 1x400w+ at 2 ohms?

How much am I looking at for the above specs?

Cheers!

Hi Jamie.

Hope this'll help.

I know it aint Alpine, but it IS relevant in terms of meeting your power requirements. I know I probably sound like a broken record but when you said 2 ohm bridged I immediately thought of the RF Power series:

RF Power 551X (http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2030) - 70W x 4 or 275W x 2 (at 4 ohms, so will be more at 2). This probably wouldn't quite make your requirements, but its a 'cost effective' solution. £250

RF Power 851X (http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2031) - 110W x 4 or 425W x 2 (at 4 ohms, so will definately meet your requirements!) £430

PPI PCX480 (http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2904&tab=2) - 80W x 4 or 320W x 2 (at 4 ohms, and I reckon this would hit your requirements) £400

PPI PCX5800 (http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2902&tab=2) - cant properly understand the CAD list of power ratings but it'll EASILY meet your requirements. Baz W had one of these. £460.

Hope this helps, but sorry it aint Alpine!

I've been in contact with PPI and the 4 channels are not 2 ohm stable bridged so they're no good.

I was thinking about RF but I'm worried by the quality issues they seem to have with whining power supplies etc, from what I've seen reliability can be a bit suspect on them although I might have another look, I seem to be drawing a blank! The best option I've foind so far is the SPL Dynamics 5 channel but it only does 320w to the sub and their technical department didn't seem to understand me asking if birth sheet ratings were generally higher than the published ones!

RF will be OK :)

None of my RFs have whining PSUs apart from my chromie (until it gets warm, hell, I whine when I'm woken up and I'm cold). My Fusion monoblock had a whine and I think Tej has it now and its still fine.

I'm surprised the PPIs arent 2 ohm stable bridged.. Certainly the older ones (like PPI_Mark used to have) are NUTS. Mate of mine (Clio_dave) bought one and its SILLY at 4 ohm bridged, let alone 2 (and it doesnt mind).

How stable will the RF amps be at 2 ohms bridged? The power 551X will probably do the job, alternatively the Punch 401S will do for the sub if it would run happily at 2 ohms and a 301S will do the front end.

Basically I don't want to go out and buy an amp that won't run the sub without shutting down if I drive it hard!

I could always go for a pair of Punch 201S, one per coil and a 301S for the front end............

Purely IMO, the power series ought to be OK.

The Punch series of old will do it ALL DAY, but the newer ones I wouldnt.

If you want a 4 chan RF, I would go with the 851 since you wont have to run it so hard to get the same output. Bear in mind that running an amp at a lower impedance only allows it to output more power if it can. If the PSU cant cope, it wont give more power. Hence, if you go for a bigger amp, it'll have a better PSU (and will be able to give XX power at 2 ohms bridged more easily).

Of course (and this might not apply to you) but there is the 2nd hand market. I know its more effort searching for amps (certainly a factor if you want them to match) but as an example if you went for a 225.2 (or a 250.2 chrome) then that would do your comps awesomely and a 125.2 (or 100.2 - you own one, right?!) will do 2 ohms bridged ALL DAY and give more than 400W..

If you still have the 100.2, and need an amp for your comps then another 100.2 would work (just!) and any of the 4 chans (bridged) would be fine..

Hope this helps :)

The solution which you mentioned (201s x 2 + 301s) would be fine too.

Did you get the PM jamie?

ring me!

dont quote me on this, but i THINK Baz W ran the IDmax off his PPI amp(bridged to 2ohm)? although i cant remember properly

i bridged my RF 200.4 down to 2ohm, although it managed to run fine(and didnt heat up too much) it did start to crackle if you pushed it too hard, so i tihnk i only made about 200-250w from it(it'l do 180w @4ohm).. and it doesnt whine

the 500bd used to whine HEAVILY when i first got it, but then it just stopped :) and it only used to whine when it was cold

and Chris' Fusion doesnt seem to whine either :)

Well, the RF amp I would get to run my fronts (301S) is now out of stock and there are no more available so that rules out RF basically. The 551X won't make enough power and the 851X is too expensive.

Jamie have you sold your 100.2 then?

Loads of suitable partners for it on eBay etc.

I've still got the 100.2 and the VP2, I just fancied a change although I'm sure I could find a 60.2 or 100.2 to go with it I guess.

Do you or Dale have one spare?!

Sorry Jamie I don't have a spare. I tend to go for the black and grind (but same shape as your 100.2). I don't think Dale does either.

I would seriously recommend eBay.. I know its hastle and bother, but a lot of the guys on US eBay are willing to ship to the UK if you ask them (saying that you'll pay for the extra insurance).

What to get:
Sub (assuming a D4): 100.2 (or better) @ 2 ohms, 60.2 on each coil
Comps: 100.2 (or better) running stereo, or a 40.2 bridged on each side (that would be nice!! - around 140W bridged)

Hope this helps if you decide to go down that route.

There are a couple of black and silver ones on UK eBay but none of the same shape as mine. Is the casing the same on them, could I just paint it a different colour and make it look the same?

Sorry, which ones are on ebay??

RF Amp pics and descriptions (http://www.bsquaredsen.co.uk/dale/rockford/)

According to Dales 'Rockford - An anoraks guide' page it's the A Series on eBay, I have a Silver Gold but with the endcaps stripped and polished.

Right OK that helps:

Silver gold = good
black and grind (NON a series) = good (silver/gold tweaked)
a series = different internals, similar to RF series 1 amps (ie not as good as silvergold/black and grind)

Thing is the black and grinds have a permanent feature - the 'grind' bit is different to your silver gold amps, regardless of colour. If that doesnt bother you, go for one of those, but not an A series :)

OK, how do I tell the difference between a black and grind and an A series?

I'm being too much of a tart so I think it would have to be a black and gold one if I did get another!

Black and grind = 40.2, 60.2 etc.. ie they have a xx.x number.

The a series have a 100a2, 120a2 etc numbering system.

Very easy to tell the difference.

The one on fleabay is a 100a2 and is at about £40. If I can't make it look the same as my 100.2 I don't want it anyway, I have my system planned out and I want 2 amps that look the same or I'll just keep what I've got!

I would leave you some positive rep but I have to spread some reputation around before giving it to Migrane again! :lol:

Bear in mind a 100a2 is only 25 x 2 or 100 x 1!! They are underrated a bit too, some can make 160W bridged, but still nothing like a real RF..

A 100.2 is 80 x 2 or 350 x 1 or so..

'A' series amps are nothing like the older ones!


How to guess at the power:

eg 'point' amp: 40.2 = 20W x 2. 20 x 2 = 40. The model number is the stereo values added together.
eg A series amp: 100a2 = 100 x 1 (or 25 x 2). The model number is the bridged value.

As you can see, very different. Please dont get caught out by this.

LOL @ rep ;) :D

OK, thanks for that! What would we do without you and Dale to answer all the RF questions!

Youre welcome. I'll stop spreading RF propaganda now, as you know what your options are :)


:clown: :cheese: :love:

Also you might like to bear in mind the Genesis 5 channel and the DLS A5.. both of which have a 2 ohm stable sub channel (IIRC!) and do nice power into the comps..

Well, the A5 does 'only' 50W into the comps, but I bet that'll be enough as its a good amp.

Or you can be a little different and take a look at these...

Blaupunkt Velocity....(clicky) (http://www.velocity.de/downloads/VELOCITY-E-2004-72-DPI.pdf)
The above is a link to a pdf file...
(the Burning Desire 2 looks like fun...)
:)

Is there a single amp, either 4 or 5 channel, which will put out about 2x100w at 4 ohms and 1x400w+ at 2 ohms?

How much am I looking at for the above specs?

Cheers!

OK, I havent been ignoring you jamiebae, just wanted to be sure before I posted.

Unfortunately, the answer is 'no'.

Our 5 channel has 120Wx2 (bridged 4ohm) and 200wx1 (4ohm). I asked our designer in the states if the sub channel can run at 2 ohm (hoping for an increase in power) but he replied that although the 5th channel can handle 2 ohms, it delivers less power as the power supply sags. "it shouldnt shut down under normal conditions, but I would still recommend a 4ohm load" was his final remark.

The four channel, if you bridge the two will still only give 200W RMS and if the same power supply rules apply, then the answer is no. :(

Thanks for asking! :)