on my doors iv applied 2 layers of r blox to the outer and inner skins correctly using a heat gun and a roller.

now with this weather the glue has started to melt and when i lower my windows they get jammed and come up with some glue on them ?

whats the way around this as my car being black doesnt help

get some good quality sound deadening ;)

r blox is legit stuff but trust me when my car sits in the sun the doors bcome so hot u cant touch them bcos they burn

yeah and alot of sound deadening have gone through tempreture tests with no problems exceeding oven tempretures (dynamate extreme/second skin damplifier pro)

have u seen the sound deadener showdown?

dont know the site off to hand but do a search,, there are alot of "ligit" sound deadeners thast dont work well with etreme heat, especially asphalt ones.

rblox is bitumen and asphalt free ?

possible i done a botch job ? there may have been bits that arent in contact with metal could that eb the problem ?

rblox is bitumen and asphalt free ?

possible i done a botch job ? there may have been bits that arent in contact with metal could that eb the problem ?

I am using R-blox extreme at the moment - mainly because my local (and reputable) ice installer recommended it, the reason he gave was that it does not come off in the heat!

Did you ensure that you got ALL of the wax off of your door skins? I used brake cleaner - it'll take off just about anything, and I don't have to pay for it!

Unfortunatey, I don't think that R-blox was tested on the showdown, but take a look anyway:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

dynamate extreme was ok for me in the heat and the cold,but a good few people use RBLOX and i not read this before.

how did you put it on the panels?

gaz

sorry maybe wrong, maybe you didnt clean the surface up enough, as said above. otherthan that, it may just be getting to cooking tempretures!

i used white spirit and cleaned throughly ?

im baffled

cant think of anything else,,, it must have been the heat,,, was it r blox standard or extreme?

did you roll it down after.

gaz

yeah rolled it down properly using the supplied roller .

i think it was normal r blox the 100sqft pack

Your product is an asphlat material meant for use on roofs. Same as Edead as tested on the SDS site. It works if you install it 100% accuartely and never exceed 100 degrees F.
I would look in to Brown bread, Dynamat extreme, Stinger Road Kill or somthing all butyl that can not melt.

r-blox isn't in the current version of Sound Deadener Showdown, but I am testing some right now for the next. It is asphalt and very flimsy to boot. No way I would call it a "legit" sound deadener.

All of the discussions we have had about asphalt possibly surviving in your milder climate are now moot. With the temperatures you have been experiencing lately, you are in the same boat as we are in the US. Start with asphalt being less effective at any temperature than butyl. When you start seeing temperature induced failures, the lower cost disappears as a consideration.

Asphalt will definitely fail at 180F (82C). People have been asserting for years that the interior of a car can not reach those temps unless it is black and parked all day in the sun in the Arizona desert.

This turns out to be true for the internal air temperature. The other day it was 93F (34C). After a few hours in the sun, the air space in my light SILVER car was around 130F (54C). I used an IR thermometer to check the door cards and interior trim. Some of it was already at 180F.

I have looked into the question of user error being a source of failure. What really stands out is that I have NEVER found a case of butyl mat failure, regardless of the care taken during installation. I've found hundreds of asphalt mat failures. It doesn't matter how clean the substrate is when the adhesive itself melts.

Finally, heat damage to asphalt is cummulative - the more heat it sees, the more the rubber stabilizing compounds degrade lowering the heat tolerance. Ironically, the heating that is required to make a satisfactory installation - for example from a heat gun - is more than enough to start the deterioration.

The best advice I can give is to take advantage of the adhesive failure and yank that stuff out. Replace it with a quality butyl product and never worry about it again.

Your product is an asphlat material meant for use on roofs. Same as Edead as tested on the SDS site. It works if you install it 100% accuartely and never exceed 100 degrees F.
I would look in to Brown bread, Dynamat extreme, Stinger Road Kill or somthing all butyl that can not melt.

Brown Bread is asphalt too. Oddly, and good luck sussing this out of Second Skin Rep's response, but Second Skin Damplifier is the only product I am aware of that has no asphalt content at all. Some small quantity of asphalt filler isn't going to be a problem for general use heat resistance, but none at all is best in that regard.

Dynamat Xtreme and Stinger Road kill are fine products, but Damplifier is significantly better.

All of the discussions we have had about asphalt possibly surviving in your milder climate are now moot.
I totally agree Don... I have R-Blox in my trunk and as time goes on, the failure gets worse... thankfully it's only at the edges at the moment, but at some point (preferably next time the amp rack is out) it's going to have to be replaced.

Lesson learned methinks :)

I have a roll of R-Blox, I think I'll use that to deaden the floor pan, at least gravity s on my side when the adhesive melts.

Could for instance Mullets case where it has started to peel, would re-affixing these edges with say a contact adhesive help the mat last any longer?

Bill - when the adhesive melts, you're not deadening the panel as well as if the mat's stuck on.. ok, you'll have the force of gravity holding the mat on for mass loading (in your case), but any viscoelastic properties would be nullified.

I guess contact adhesive may be one approach, although doesn't that bond weaken with high temperatures too?

Bill - when the adhesive melts, you're not deadening the panel as well as if the mat's stuck on.. ok, you'll have the force of gravity holding the mat on for mass loading (in your case), but any viscoelastic properties would be nullified.

Agreed, I'm looking at thin foam and mat sandwich, as loose sound barrier mats between the carpet and floor.


I guess contact adhesive may be one approach, although doesn't that bond weaken with high temperatures too?

no idea if it does or not, that is why I'm asking on a forum ;)

I would like to add that I think white spirit is not a too good idea to use for pre conditioning the surface for sound deadner.

It contains a multitude of different chemicals and I think leaves a trace film on the surface.

Use proper car panel wipe afterwards to clean.

Brake cleaner is great. But highly dangerous in the spray can, cos it is easily inhaled! But dont we all !

Also air is a crap heat conductor so will always be lower in temp than the panels.

I have cheapo stuff on the roof of my uno, it peals in very hot temps only in places where I know I did a crap cleaning job!

I'll post some pics of the Würth asphalt mats I used in my MGB GT roof - It doesn't look good and that's with the car being sat in the garage for 2 years in Norway (not the hottest country in the world ;))

agreed do not ever use white spirit, i use panel wipe, or celly thinners. dont use brake cleaner for that anymore, its too expensive to waste on something like that.

eDead is now 100% Butyl Based!

bumping old threads is naughty

pimping your own products is naughty

you are, err, naughty

No bumping old thread's please.

I'm not entirely sure of your motivations here either, please read the forum rules regarding traders.