Sorry another deadening thread, but which order (most noticeable difference/effect) should you deaden doors?

I would have thought, but probably wrong:
1. outer skin (one nearest the road)
2. inner skin (one with all the bits attached)
3. door card

If you could leave 1 out, which one?

I have 19 sq ft of second skin damplifier pro (well 15 of pro 4 of the lower grade stuff), but ideally would only like to use 12-15 on the doors so that i can put a piece here and there in other parts of the car

oh and while i'm here what exactly are rear quarters, are these the back pillars?

Outer skin is very important for blocking road noise and if you have speakers mounted in the doors. Inner skin is important to seal again if speakers in the door and control resonance in speaker mounting surface. Doing the cards helps eliminate buzzing and is one final defense against noise.

I would definitely start from the outer skin. Not only is it a critical surface, but you won't preclude future access to the inner surfaces when you decide to add more. Could have said "if", but let's be realistic.

If by rear quarters, you mean rear quarter panels, that's everything from the fenders up to the trunk seam and forward to the door seam. I'm pretty sure that if I know what you mean when you say boot, you know what I mean when I say trunk :)

perfect... thanks rudebwoy

I started with the door card purely because it rattled so much on my 306. The outer door skin made the biggest improvement to sound quality though and like Rudeboy says, once you've done the inner door skin you can no longer access the outer skin!

do you have to go the whole hog on the door card, or will a bit here and there and on the bigger surfaces of it be ok, cause i dont think 19 sq ft will be enough to do all the outer, inner and door card on both doors.
how much does an average door need (1 layer, 1 skin), i reckon about
3-4 sq ft per skin, does that sound about right

Hmm sorry i'm not sure how much i've used as i had it on 50sq ft rolls and it's hard to tell how much is left! At a guess i'll have used about half a roll by the time i've done the doors - however i did do 3 layers on the lower half of the outer skin panel. 19sq ft might be enough! If you start on the outer skin and work inwards then you can always get more if you run out for the door card.

I covered everything i could on the door card but it really did rattle badly. You can see my door card on the 2nd pic in this thread: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=160699

With something as thick as the Damp Pro, one layer should do the job. Just hit the wide open areas of the door card.

Some things I forgot to mention that goes along with "Don't seal yourself off from future enhancements" notion. It's a very good idea to look for rattles inside the door while you have it open. Loose wires, screws and bolts, like that. Damping the vibrations will reduce the energy that causes things to rattle, but it is miserable to seal everything up and hear something clanking around inside.

It is a very good idea to add at least one layer of closed cell foam, at least to the outer skin. Absorbs noise and the backwave from your speakers. Closed cell on top of the mat makes a huge difference.

Don't put anything inside the doors that will be damaged by moisture and remember to leave enough space around the fastening points for the door card and anything lese that attaches to that surface. Very annoying to have to trim away material that you should not have put there in the first place.

Hmm sorry i'm not sure how much i've used as i had it on 50sq ft rolls and it's hard to tell how much is left! At a guess i'll have used about half a roll by the time i've done the doors - however i did do 3 layers on the lower half of the outer skin panel. 19sq ft might be enough! If you start on the outer skin and work inwards then you can always get more if you run out for the door card.

I covered everything i could on the door card but it really did rattle badly. You can see my door card on the 2nd pic in this thread: http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=160699

If the R-Blox you get is the same as what is sold here under that name, you really can't compare square foot coverage. The Damplifier is much thicker and significantly more effective per unit of thickness. The foil layer is at least 4 times thicker. Having played with both pretty extensively, I don't think I am exagerating to say that one layer of Damplifier Pro will be more effective than 3 or 4 layers of R-Blox - again, this assumes that your R-Blox is the same stuff sold here.

If you want a good laugh, take at look at this test (http://www.r-blox.com/rblox_sound_deadener_r-blox_material_Insulative-properties-report.htm) they have on their Web site.

thank you v much guys, i know these questions keep popping up and can be tedious, but when you search you dont always get the exact answer to your q. Logical things like doing the outer skin first are stupidly obvious that it is easily done wrong if you know what i mean

thanks again

thank you v much guys, i know these questions keep popping up and can be tedious, but when you search you dont always get the exact answer to your q. Logical things like doing the outer skin first are stupidly obvious that it is easily done wrong if you know what i mean

thanks again

Logic goes out the window, especially if like me, you're 6'4" trying to stuff yourself into a Honda Civic. The doors are pretty comfortable to do, but the floor can be a treat. Who would anticipate that if you sit on a seam for too long you'll end up with your ass glued to the car?

A few more tips. The aluminum foil on Damp Pro, Damp or Dynamat Xtreme will absolutely slice your hands to ribbons. Be careful. You can wear gloves when you cut it, but not really when you re installing it since the gloves will stick to the adhesive. Blood will flow.

You want the surfaces to be clean before you install the mat. Denatured Alcohol works well to remove any grease that may be present. Avoid any cleaners that leave an oily residue like some paint solvents can.

Take the time to press it down completely to eliminate any air bubbles between the adhesive and the mounting surface.

If the R-Blox you get is the same as what is sold here under that name, you really can't compare square foot coverage. The Damplifier is much thicker and significantly more effective per unit of thickness. The foil layer is at least 4 times thicker. Having played with both pretty extensively, I don't think I am exagerating to say that one layer of Damplifier Pro will be more effective than 3 or 4 layers of R-Blox - again, this assumes that your R-Blox is the same stuff sold here.

If you want a good laugh, take at look at this test (http://www.r-blox.com/rblox_sound_deadener_r-blox_material_Insulative-properties-report.htm) they have on their Web site.
Yeah it is the same stuff. I know it's not as good as Damplifier etc but it was so cheap - £1 per sq ft - i figured something was better than nothing and i can can afford to layer it up in places, which becomes not so cost effective anyway, oh well :D

Yeah it is the same stuff. I know it's not as good as Damplifier etc but it was so cheap - £1 per sq ft - i figured something was better than nothing and i can can afford to layer it up in places, which becomes not so cost effective anyway, oh well :D

It is much more than better than nothing. Your climate isn't as hard on asphalt as ours is - people have been using Brown Bread with good results over there for years and R-Blox is basically a thinner version of that. I just get angry when these characters pretend that their products are as good as or better than the more expensive alternatives.

You should be very pleased with the results. Just don't park your car in Arizona during the summer :)

one last q on this, what do you use to de-grease and clean the metal. i thought white spirit might do it, but i have read some threads which say it is too oily.
What do I get, roughly how much and where from?

TIA

Leave door card in my opinion. Its usually not very well secured so any you put on will be a waste of time and materials. I just did inner and outer skin concentrating on inner most (as i couldnt reach the outer!)

one last q on this, what do you use to de-grease and clean the metal. i thought white spirit might do it, but i have read some threads which say it is too oily.
What do I get, roughly how much and where from?

TIA
I used white spirit, and wiped it down afterwards with a dry cloth to get rid of any residue, which seemed fine to me. There are probably better cleaners though.

Denatured alcohol works well.

I always use the alcohol that was used for cleaning circuitry at my old work - polyethanol i think and it leaves no residue, evaporates in seconds. Dries your hands out like nothing else and the fumes give u the worst headache ever tho.

I thought about using isopropyl alcohol but i've only got a little left and i like to use it for electronics, not general purpose cleaning :D

I have a Damplifier Pro Trunk kit I am going to fit at the weekend. It was the same price as Dynamat Extreme, but according to Rudeboy's showdown test, it is much easier to reapply if you make a mistake.

It's only going in a Clio, so hopefully I'll have some bits left I can stick behind the speakers in the doors until I buy some more.

Looking forward to seeing if it makes a big difference in my exhaust's resonance drone (twin pipes).

Nick - It wont. I used 15 sheets in my car and it wont get rid of a powering sound like that, its too much for it. The car is generally quieter but you'll still be able to hear it - just dont expect miracles.

I'm not expecting not to hear it or it to be almost silent or anything!

But was told it will help kill some of the 'boomy' resonance that twin exits make.

Well after a good few hours, i have finally stuck down sound deadening in the front end properly. (won't tell you had long i have had just a little bit of extreme around the mids).
Ended up using 3 1/2 sheets of second skin damplifier pro. Went on very easy with minimal effort. Easy to cut and shape. Completey covered the outer and inner skins, then just a bit here and there on the door cards. Gaffer taped some sponges in strategic places and i have a new system. Fanbloodytastic!!! :) Second skin is great. Easy to apply, and midbass is now just how it should be. And...only 1 little cut :D

Now to cover the boot.

Thanks for your advice on this one. Just wanted to make sure i did it right, especially when taking the car apart.

Cool. Any pics?

Oh and does anyone know where to get that closed cell foam cheapish?

Cool. Any pics?

Oh and does anyone know where to get that closed cell foam cheapish?

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4857

sorry no pics, i didnt have time, the little one wanted wanted to play some football, but it pretty much looks like this.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=35733

I was thinking about the closed cell foam, but didnt buy it when i placed my order and didnt want to wait any longer. It is much, much better than before so not really too bothered.

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4857
Already seen that but don't want that much of the stuff.