Been applying some R-Blox this weekend - started off on the door card to get a feel for how to use the deadener and also i thought it needed it, as the door card is pretty flimsy in the 306 and the speaker mounts 'through' it and not directly onto the door skin itself..

I'm impressed with the results so far, door feels like it's made of something very solid now! But as i expected the fact i've not sealed the holes in the inner skin means there's not a great amount of midbass coming through. I've not finished the inner skin, got a question on that for you.

Progress so far (it's a bit of a patchwork, oh well :)):
http://outg.net/306/deadening_door_web.jpg

Tried to completely cover the door card, as you can see at the bottom:
http://outg.net/306/deadening_door_and_card_web.jpg

You can see from the first pic that i've not sealed the holes where the electric window motor etc openings are. These were originally sealed with some flimsy foam from Peugeot that i ripped off to get access to the outer skin. What i'm wondering is what you guys reckon i should do to cover these holes back up.

I've seen some people just stick sound deadening over them - but i'm not hugely keen on it being completely unsupported over some of the really big openings. I came across this image on ShowYourSound:

http://image2.showyoursound.nl/Robi-One3/demping04.jpg

I quite like this idea! What are your opinions, do you think it's worth the hassle?

looks like a good idea there, not sure how keen Id be on drilling holes in my doors but meh who cares!

makes it a bit of a pain in the arse to get to the electric window mechanism should it go wrong tho.

looking good, i used r-blox this weekend too, seems quite good for the money.

Danxsi did you heat it up before sticking it down? I just kept the roll infront of a radiator and cut it off as needed, seemed to be easy to work with.

Beb: Good point there, the window motor is a bit dodgy too..

Do you guys think the sound deadening will be fine just stuck across the open space, i.e. without anything behind it to support it?

i used a heat gun on it, got it in plave then heated it to go into the contours of the door.

i would of used some mdf there and siliconed/screwed it in place, then dynamat over it. looks like the above picture is doing things the hard way.

i would of used some mdf there and siliconed/screwed it in place, then dynamat over it. looks like the above picture is doing things the hard way.

Yeah this would be the ideal solution - however the position of the window motor means that i would need any covering material to be "dome-shaped" as it bulges out from the door skin! It'd also have to be a near pefect fit to the contour of the motor underneath so as not to obstruct the fitting of the door card.. That's why i liked the idea in the pic above as i can mould the shape myself.. Hmm..

Do you think it would perform poorly if i just matted over the opening as it is?

Yeah this would be the ideal solution - however the position of the window motor means that i would need any covering material to be "dome-shaped" as it bulges out from the door skin! It'd also have to be a near pefect fit to the contour of the motor underneath so as not to obstruct the fitting of the door card.. That's why i liked the idea in the pic above as i can mould the shape myself.. Hmm..

Do you think it would perform poorly if i just matted over the opening as it is?

If it needs to be dome shaped you have no choice put to support it?

Well sound deadening material is flexible so it will just stretch over the motor. Something solid / inflexible like MDF would have to be of the correct contours.

Get some aluminum flashing from a roofing supplier. Flexible enough to cut and shape, but rigid enough to do the job. Silicone it or use self tapping screws. IF silicone, let it cure before you mat over it or the it will never stick.

Ah yeah that's a good idea. The local hardware shop should have some aluminium kick plates for protecting the bottom of doors, reckon they'd do the trick! It's a bit of an akward shape to mould to though. Just been on to Peugeot and they want £60 or so for their replacement door membranes :rolleyes:

Hmm now i'm back to thinking steel strips would be easier than cutting / moulding aluminium sheets.. !

The stuff I'm talking about comes on a roll and is pretty flexible. You can actually cut it with heavy shears. Nice thing about aluminum is that you don't have to worry about rust.

what car is it, a 306?

Rudeboy: Hmm the place i called didn't have anything like that. Reckon B&Q would keep it?
EDIT: Found a roofing place that keeps it but it's 6 inch by 10 metre rolls! Reckon it's not wide enough for the openings.. :(

Danxsi: Yeah, phase 3, 3-door 306.

You could use strips of flashing tape to make a solid mould. Personally I'd use the steel strips and screw them in place, takes a while to remove them but it'll be easier to put them back again.

Could try it, i just applied dynamat over the holes but im lazy like that!

I like this and I did it similiar in my car: CLICK (http://www.klangfuzzi.com/rep_user_sascha_vwtouran.php)

Cheers,
Konni

looks fantastic

Ok well i've gone with the metal strip approach. Bought a 10m roll of this stuff, was only a few quid. Got some self tappers to go with so i'll let you know how it goes over the next few days!

http://outg.net/306/metal_strip1_web.jpg

http://outg.net/306/metal_strip2_web.jpg

if I was you mate, I'd apply some sort of protective paint on it like hammerite to avoid it from rusting.

Or what about leaving the peel off backing on the sound deadening where it will touch the motor. Then this first layer can be moulded to whatever the convex shape is, and subsequent layers are just applied to the first layer. This saves drilling, makes it easy and fast take off.

I just cover the cutouts in this way. I suppose the braces are used over the cutouts to stop any flexing expecially if using 6" + midrange/midbass units in the doors.

Trev

Trevk yeah you're right and that would have been an easier way to go :)

I cut the metal strips to size, taped em in place to mock it up:
http://outg.net/306/mesh_metal_strips4_web.jpg

And painted them (thanks cswice)!
http://outg.net/306/metal_strips_painted1_web.jpg

Gonna screw it all in place now and r-blox over it..

WOW! Quite a lot of support for it there, now youve gotta hope the struts dont start rattling!!

now youve gotta hope the struts dont start rattling!!
Aaaaghh dont say that! :clown:

Just finished off.

Screwed the metal mesh down, it's surprisingly solid.
http://outg.net/306/mesh_screwed_down_web.jpg

And sound deadened over it!
http://outg.net/306/finished_web.jpg

Gonna take the car out and test it out now..
And then move onto the other door :clown:

I wish I had the guts to do something like that.... I've got 3 big holes in my door skins with only two covered on each side

Looks very impressive. Likewise I have a Phase 3 306 and I'm not really looking forward to doing the deadening or drilling holes for the speaker wire... :wow:

The stuff I was talking about looks like this
http://www.softwork-orange.com/_forum_images/flashing.jpg

Your solution looks fine. The important thing is to give it enough rigidity not to act as a diaphram when under pressure. I like to cover the adhesive, but yours is probably stronger - with I nice decorative flair to boot :)

The stuff I was talking about looks like this
..

Your solution looks fine. The important thing is to give it enough rigidity not to act as a diaphram when under pressure. I like to cover the adhesive, but yours is probably stronger - with I nice decorative flair to boot :)
Yeah i did find somewhere that stocked it but it was on 10m x 15cm sheets and i though it would be easier to make the shape from the strips of metal, cowards way out really :)

My only worry is though, as you say, that it will 'flex' with the bass. The metal structure itself is very rigid, but clearly the sound deadening is not fixed down in between the metal strips so it could flex. It sounds great though so i'm not too worried!

Tweed / pugmanic - i'm a total newbie to all this and it was easy, just a little time consuming..

Rudeboy - that does look like a good alternative, that way it would seal the hole completley and create a soild chamber for a speaker

looks good, but whats the advantage, why not block with 3-5mm mdf

looks good, but whats the advantage, why not block with 3-5mm mdf

MDF will work, but it is thicker and unless you treat it - coating with fiberglass resin is one approach - it will absorb moisture, swell and fall apart.

One caveat about the aluminum flashing. I like to seal it in place using silicone adhesive. This works very well, but you MUST let the silicone cure before you apply damping mat to the surface. Uncured silicone is very slippery and nothing will stick to anything if you move ahead to quickly.

I use thin acrylic sheet personally - quite rigid but still flexible and totally waterproof etc. and its cheap too. and light! :cheese:

nice job! :D

This week i've had the door card off and found a bit of the sound deadening material has come away under the weight of the velcro'd-on crossover - i didn't use a heat gun on the first door as i didn't realise it was necessary at the time. It's all stuck back fine now with a bit of help from the heat gun.

Incidentally i used the heat gun extensively when i got round to deadening the other door and it's stuck on proper, there's no chance that's coming off!

So in short it's important to heat up the sticky side of the deadening material with a heat gun before applying!