Neeley
11-05-2006, 08:26 PM
These were so quick, cheap and easy to do.
On with the pics.......
First I cut the holes out to slightly sink the tweeter cups in.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_01.jpg
Drilled loads of holes to make it easier. (As pointed out By Mulletboy2, using a soldering iron with a hot knife attachment would have been easier)
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_02.jpg
Returning the pillars to the car, I aimed the tweets then hot glued the cups in place. Hot glue guns are as cheap as a fiver from woolworths.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_03.jpg
Stretched some old speaker grill cloth over the entire pillar. This is to get the contour of the build and the basis to apply the resin. Don't pull it too tight around the tweeter cup as it needs to have a nice long flow along the pillar.
The cloth is stapled at the back to hold in place. (As Pointed out by Mulletboy2, hot glue would probably been better, I found just stapling it worked ok.)
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_04.jpg
Cover the entire pillar, making sure the edges are pulled in tight.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_014.jpg
No fancy fiberglassing gear, just a tin of resin and hardner from halfords. The spray glue is for applying the finishing material for the build.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_013.jpg
Apply One coat of the resin to the whole build. When it's cured but still sticky, (approx 1 hour) give the build another coat. Another one after that wouldn't hurt either... I gave mine just the two, it was strong enough.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_05.jpg
Once the glassings completed and the builds are fully cured, you need to sand the shiny glaze back, remove any slight bumps and trim the edges off. Also cut the hole for the tweeter.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_06.jpg
Make sure it's all smooth and flowing nicely into the cup. I chose to remove the backs from the cups so I could mount some foam behind the tweeter. When the final covering goes on, it's a tight push fit.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_07.jpg
Here's the covering material I used, It has a foam backing and sticks well with the sray glue.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_012.jpg
Pic to show the trimming from the rear. The material doesn't need to be stretched over the build, but start form the center and work your way out. Spray glue the edges and wrap around it.
Make a X cut over the tweeter cup, fold and glue the material in. When previously sanding around the cup, allow for a tight push fit of the tweeter with the final covering in place.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_011.jpg
Completed....
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_08.jpg
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_09.jpg
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_10.jpg
On with the pics.......
First I cut the holes out to slightly sink the tweeter cups in.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_01.jpg
Drilled loads of holes to make it easier. (As pointed out By Mulletboy2, using a soldering iron with a hot knife attachment would have been easier)
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_02.jpg
Returning the pillars to the car, I aimed the tweets then hot glued the cups in place. Hot glue guns are as cheap as a fiver from woolworths.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_03.jpg
Stretched some old speaker grill cloth over the entire pillar. This is to get the contour of the build and the basis to apply the resin. Don't pull it too tight around the tweeter cup as it needs to have a nice long flow along the pillar.
The cloth is stapled at the back to hold in place. (As Pointed out by Mulletboy2, hot glue would probably been better, I found just stapling it worked ok.)
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_04.jpg
Cover the entire pillar, making sure the edges are pulled in tight.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_014.jpg
No fancy fiberglassing gear, just a tin of resin and hardner from halfords. The spray glue is for applying the finishing material for the build.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_013.jpg
Apply One coat of the resin to the whole build. When it's cured but still sticky, (approx 1 hour) give the build another coat. Another one after that wouldn't hurt either... I gave mine just the two, it was strong enough.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_05.jpg
Once the glassings completed and the builds are fully cured, you need to sand the shiny glaze back, remove any slight bumps and trim the edges off. Also cut the hole for the tweeter.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_06.jpg
Make sure it's all smooth and flowing nicely into the cup. I chose to remove the backs from the cups so I could mount some foam behind the tweeter. When the final covering goes on, it's a tight push fit.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_07.jpg
Here's the covering material I used, It has a foam backing and sticks well with the sray glue.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_012.jpg
Pic to show the trimming from the rear. The material doesn't need to be stretched over the build, but start form the center and work your way out. Spray glue the edges and wrap around it.
Make a X cut over the tweeter cup, fold and glue the material in. When previously sanding around the cup, allow for a tight push fit of the tweeter with the final covering in place.
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_011.jpg
Completed....
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_08.jpg
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_09.jpg
http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/gallery/data/500/medium/tweet_10.jpg