I've got a clio which I've done a tiny amount of deadening, only where the speaker sits lol. Didn't make much difference and my old sub wasn't really that powerful to make any of the panels flex.
Upgrading my system quite a bit now through and my panels are defiantly flex and i would like to improve my midbass.
I plan on fully deadening my doors, all of the outer skin and all of the inner skin where possible. Is all this needed? Also i know that for best effects you are supposed to try to seal your doors. Is there any special material that you use for this or do you just place some deadening over the holes?
Also i'm getting some 6.5 comps opposed to 5.25 what ive got. I'm going to have to make a baffle for them to fit. Do i deaden the metal where the baffle will be secured and then screw it over the top or secure the baffle directly to the metal?
I plan on deadening all of my doors to improve my mids SQ and then any parts of my car that is going to flex. Im guessing my boot, the boot floor, the rear quarter panels and i will probably do under the rear seats just because its easy to get to. What is this stuff like and will it be enough http://www.caraudiod...-bulk-pack.html? Is there much of a difference between 2mm and 4mm?
And also what is this stuff and is it needed if so which one is better?
http://www.caraudiod...ulk.html<br />
http://www.caraudiod...tor-8-bulk.html
1
Another deadening question
Started by tonksie, Feb 22 2012 19:32
6 replies to this topic
#2
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Posted 23 Feb 2012 - 00:21
Similar questions to what I've asked as I'm in the process of trying to get my doors deadened.
I believe, depending on what your doors are like, you can just use deadening material to cover up holes... But if you've got massive sections you may need to cover them first, or fill the holes with something.
Im quite lucky as my whole door is already sealed apart from 2 3" holes... which will be a doddle to seal.
In regards to the baffle, what I have learnt is to make a nice 'seal' between baffle and door.
So yes, I would cover the whole speaker area in sound deadening and then bolt your baffle through the sound deadening. You don't want any gaps between baffle and the door..
The isolator 4 or 8 could be used, if you apply it to your baffle where the baffle will touch the door, it will furthermore help to seal the baffle up when its bolted to the door.
I'm personally, going to cover my inner skin in 2mm deadening material, then put a layer of isolator 4 over it, as apparently it helps reduce airborne noise.. and works good when used over the 2 or 4mm deadening matt.
I'll then reach through my speaker hole and apply in squares/strips as much deadening material as I can to go on the outer skin.
Behind the speaker itself Im applying a square of absorber 15 to act as a wave diffuser.
I imagine with the 2 or 4mm matts, just depends how bad vibration already is, or how powerful your system will be when installed. The 4mm is thicker, heavier therefore reduces vibrations/resonance better.. Im not sure how much better though, on paper you'd think it would be doubly as effective as 2mm.
I also heard about 'isolation'
Basically it was about isolating your speaker from the mount, or creating a 'free floating' speaker. The aim is to disconnect the speaker from its baffle, and the baffle from the door, so no vibration makes it to the door of the car... Can do this by putting a layer of something (silicone/silent coat isolator foams) inbetween your speaker and the baffle, and then again inbetween the baffle and the door.
Other people have said the same result can be achieved by just bolting the speaker and baffle very tight to the door, thus making the whole door the speaker mount, and that huge panel is unlikely to suffer much vibrations... especially if deadened.
The one part I am unsure of is, do you put isolator 4/6/12 ontop of the 2 or 4mm deadening matt on both the inner and outer skins?
I believe, depending on what your doors are like, you can just use deadening material to cover up holes... But if you've got massive sections you may need to cover them first, or fill the holes with something.
Im quite lucky as my whole door is already sealed apart from 2 3" holes... which will be a doddle to seal.
In regards to the baffle, what I have learnt is to make a nice 'seal' between baffle and door.
So yes, I would cover the whole speaker area in sound deadening and then bolt your baffle through the sound deadening. You don't want any gaps between baffle and the door..
The isolator 4 or 8 could be used, if you apply it to your baffle where the baffle will touch the door, it will furthermore help to seal the baffle up when its bolted to the door.
I'm personally, going to cover my inner skin in 2mm deadening material, then put a layer of isolator 4 over it, as apparently it helps reduce airborne noise.. and works good when used over the 2 or 4mm deadening matt.
I'll then reach through my speaker hole and apply in squares/strips as much deadening material as I can to go on the outer skin.
Behind the speaker itself Im applying a square of absorber 15 to act as a wave diffuser.
I imagine with the 2 or 4mm matts, just depends how bad vibration already is, or how powerful your system will be when installed. The 4mm is thicker, heavier therefore reduces vibrations/resonance better.. Im not sure how much better though, on paper you'd think it would be doubly as effective as 2mm.
I also heard about 'isolation'
Basically it was about isolating your speaker from the mount, or creating a 'free floating' speaker. The aim is to disconnect the speaker from its baffle, and the baffle from the door, so no vibration makes it to the door of the car... Can do this by putting a layer of something (silicone/silent coat isolator foams) inbetween your speaker and the baffle, and then again inbetween the baffle and the door.
Other people have said the same result can be achieved by just bolting the speaker and baffle very tight to the door, thus making the whole door the speaker mount, and that huge panel is unlikely to suffer much vibrations... especially if deadened.
The one part I am unsure of is, do you put isolator 4/6/12 ontop of the 2 or 4mm deadening matt on both the inner and outer skins?
Clouds over california
#3
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Posted 23 Feb 2012 - 20:08
Cheers for the reply.
Can you double up deadening? Because i don't want to buy the 4mm if it inst needed, so if i buy 2mm and it isn't enough just wack another sheet over the top?
So deaden all of my door even where the baffle will be placed and then put some deadening on top of my baffle in between it and the speaker?
And use http://www.caraudiod...tor-8-bulk.html wherever i put deadening? I will probably go with that one as it looks better than the other one.
I'm sure i saw some stuff used for sealing up doors, its like a thin sheet of stuff that creates a air tight seal then you put deadening over the top. I could of swore it was on a tutorial on here but i can't find it. It would be nice if anyone else could put some input in lol.
Can you double up deadening? Because i don't want to buy the 4mm if it inst needed, so if i buy 2mm and it isn't enough just wack another sheet over the top?
So deaden all of my door even where the baffle will be placed and then put some deadening on top of my baffle in between it and the speaker?
And use http://www.caraudiod...tor-8-bulk.html wherever i put deadening? I will probably go with that one as it looks better than the other one.
I'm sure i saw some stuff used for sealing up doors, its like a thin sheet of stuff that creates a air tight seal then you put deadening over the top. I could of swore it was on a tutorial on here but i can't find it. It would be nice if anyone else could put some input in lol.
#4
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Posted 23 Feb 2012 - 20:53
As far as doubling up is concerned, I see no reason why not, and i'm sure i've seen threads on here where people have doubled up, it just might work out a little more expensive in the long run if you need to buy 2 lots of thinner stuff, as opposed to 1 lot of thicker stuff.
I actually made a paper sheet the size of the deadening panels that will be coming, and did a little trial placing it over my doors to get a rough idea how much I will need lol... Basic but fairly effective I hope!
Yep, from what I've been told, and what I will be doing is
1. Layer of 2 or 4mm deadening panel goes on to bare metal.
2. Layer of sound isolator (foam layer) goes on 4,8,12mm or whatever you want, over the matt.
Baffle then bolts on over the top of the 2 layers (matt and foam layer)
If there is still gaps between baffle and door, just add more foam layer (8mm if thats what your going with) to the baffle surface that will touch the door.. Should make it so that there are no gaps at all!
Yeah, well what I'm going to do is, once the baffle is installed, I'll put a circle/ring of foam layer isolator along the baffles surface just so that again, there is no gaps where the speaker will be attaching to the baffle. Not sure if this is necessary, but hell, It surely can't harm!
I'm just going to try and get as much deadening on the inner and outer skins as possible...
One thing I was thinking of is, I imagine it would be viable to make sure whatever you deaden on one door, try to replicate it exactly on the other door, as I imagine if one door has deadening in different places, this might affect the sound from one speaker compared to the other... lol...
Remember though, if you do double up on layers, make sure you only put deadening matt over deadening matt, as It won't do much good if its stuck over the foam isolator sheets.
Deadening matt ---> Deadening matt ---> foam layer (be it isolator 4. 8 or higher)
Not sure about the material used for creating a seal
sorry dude!
I actually made a paper sheet the size of the deadening panels that will be coming, and did a little trial placing it over my doors to get a rough idea how much I will need lol... Basic but fairly effective I hope!
Yep, from what I've been told, and what I will be doing is
1. Layer of 2 or 4mm deadening panel goes on to bare metal.
2. Layer of sound isolator (foam layer) goes on 4,8,12mm or whatever you want, over the matt.
Baffle then bolts on over the top of the 2 layers (matt and foam layer)
If there is still gaps between baffle and door, just add more foam layer (8mm if thats what your going with) to the baffle surface that will touch the door.. Should make it so that there are no gaps at all!
Yeah, well what I'm going to do is, once the baffle is installed, I'll put a circle/ring of foam layer isolator along the baffles surface just so that again, there is no gaps where the speaker will be attaching to the baffle. Not sure if this is necessary, but hell, It surely can't harm!
I'm just going to try and get as much deadening on the inner and outer skins as possible...
One thing I was thinking of is, I imagine it would be viable to make sure whatever you deaden on one door, try to replicate it exactly on the other door, as I imagine if one door has deadening in different places, this might affect the sound from one speaker compared to the other... lol...
Remember though, if you do double up on layers, make sure you only put deadening matt over deadening matt, as It won't do much good if its stuck over the foam isolator sheets.
Deadening matt ---> Deadening matt ---> foam layer (be it isolator 4. 8 or higher)
Not sure about the material used for creating a seal
sorry dude!
Clouds over california
#5
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Posted 23 Feb 2012 - 21:39
Found it, its called Dynaplate but its bloodly expensive haha.
Heres the guide just incase anyone coming across the thread is interested http://www.talkaudio..._1#entry3837405
Heres the guide just incase anyone coming across the thread is interested http://www.talkaudio..._1#entry3837405
#6
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Posted 24 Feb 2012 - 00:55
i would just add as i have recently completely sound deadened my car(which i have now sold), i used the 2mm for the floor, rear seat, rear arches and doors doubling up as and when i felt necessary. For the boot and roof i used the 4mm. If you look at hw much you get in both packs you get thicker in the 4mm but you get considerably less in amount.
I used 2 bulk packs of 2mm and 1 of 4mm and had a little left over(after 3 days of doing it). i definately overdid a lot of it but it was my first time deadening. I also went to b and q and bought some underlay for the floor of the car. It was a task but it was enjoyable, and i will be doing exactly the same to my new car, you definately notice the difference in sounds of the panels
On the doors just reach inside and do what you can, i did in strips in the centre, but watch how much stuff you put in for when the windows come down it can catch if you have overloaded. Also i got a tub of brax xvibration off CAD and used that for the inside of the outer skin of my boot and will be using that on the inside off the doors where can hardly get to, as i say i may have gone overboard but i will be doing it again ASAP and will do the same just not over-overloading
.
I used 2 bulk packs of 2mm and 1 of 4mm and had a little left over(after 3 days of doing it). i definately overdid a lot of it but it was my first time deadening. I also went to b and q and bought some underlay for the floor of the car. It was a task but it was enjoyable, and i will be doing exactly the same to my new car, you definately notice the difference in sounds of the panels
On the doors just reach inside and do what you can, i did in strips in the centre, but watch how much stuff you put in for when the windows come down it can catch if you have overloaded. Also i got a tub of brax xvibration off CAD and used that for the inside of the outer skin of my boot and will be using that on the inside off the doors where can hardly get to, as i say i may have gone overboard but i will be doing it again ASAP and will do the same just not over-overloading
.
Edited by VTben, 24 Feb 2012 - 00:56.
#7
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Posted 24 Feb 2012 - 07:50
I reckon i will just buy one pack of 2mm, do what i can and if i need more buy more lol. Also i'm gonna wait till my subs set up and see how bad my panels rattle, if they rattle quite a bit i might buy some 4mm for the boot and rear quarters.
